On Island Time

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Catalina Island_courtesy of Catalina Island Co.
Catalina Island | Photo by Catalina Island Co.

Easy getaways to Catalina Island offer opportunities for rest, relaxation and adventure.

By Sharon Stello

 

On a clear day, Catalina Island can be seen from the coast of Newport Beach—a silhouette on the horizon beckoning visitors to come and explore. Located just over 20 miles away, it’s an easy one-hour boat ride to reach the island for a quick weekend or midweek escape. Whether you’re in the mood for a relaxing vacation or adrenaline-fueled experiences, Catalina has it all, so you can build your own adventure.

The convenient Catalina Express ferry offers multiple departures from Dana Point, Long Beach and San Pedro to both Avalon and Two Harbors on the island. Consider upgrading to the Commodore’s Lounge for priority boarding and check-in as well as comfortable, leather-trimmed seats inside on the upper deck, with expansive windows to keep an eye on the water for dolphins, whales and seabirds that may make an appearance. The lounge also incudes snack service and an alcoholic beverage, if desired, to sip while cruising.

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Catalina Express | Photo by Catalina Express

As you approach the island, Catalina looms larger, with Avalon’s boat-filled marina and the Casino soon coming into view. The large, round building is not a place for gambling, but rather it houses a ballroom upstairs and a movie theater downstairs, drawing from the Italian word for “gathering place.” Guided tours of the art deco structure are available in addition to all kinds of other experiences on the island, from zip lining to riding in glass-bottom boats, kayaking, snorkeling, scuba diving, raptor experiences and more.

There are trips in an open-air Hummer to see the island’s wild backcountry and possibly spot some free-roaming bison. Stroll through the botanical garden or take in the exhibits at Catalina Museum for Art & History. Of course, there’s plenty of time to lounge on the beach, peruse the shops—Lloyd’s of Avalon is a must-visit destination for ice cream, salt water taffy and other nostalgic candies—and dine at the vast array of impressive restaurants, too.

 

Historic Hospitality

When it comes to choosing a place to stay, Hotel Atwater provides a great home base in Avalon. Fully renovated in 2019 and originally opened in 1920, it was the first hotel built under the direction of chewing gum magnate William Wrigley Jr., after he purchased the Catalina Island Co. more than a century ago. He named the establishment after Helen Atwater Wrigley, the wife of his son, Philip Knight Wrigley.

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A photo from the past at Catalina Museum for Art & History, featuring actor John Wayne (at left) | Photo by Catalina Island Museum

Guests receive luggage service from the ferry terminal so they may stroll along the waterfront unencumbered and have their bags delivered to the hotel, which is centrally located a block from the beach, across the street from the Tour Plaza and just steps from many shops and restaurants.

Fresh, contemporary decor features nods to the past and island life. The airy lobby offers fun tropical-print chairs amid the refined yet comfortable furniture, lush greenery and vases of fresh flowers, with two grand staircases leading to the upper levels. This welcoming space also includes an old Wrigley Building vault filled with games from checkers to dominoes and Clue to play while relaxing. Glass cabinets in a back nook display Catalina memorabilia.

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A historic photo with visitors aquaplaning with the Casino in the background | Photo by Catalina Island Museum

Upon arrival, guests receive two splits of sparkling wine in their well-appointed room as well as a $20 per room food and beverage credit to use at Bistro at the Atwater, which offers grab-and-go coffee, breakfast items and baked goods adjacent to the hotel, or at Avalon Grille, Antonio’s pizzeria or Descanso Beach Club. Overnight guests also receive a 15% discount on Catalina Island Co. activities and tours plus complimentary beach towels.

 

Fun-Filled Days

When it comes to choosing activities, there’s too many to do them all in one visit. But among the highlights is the Undersea Sub Expedition. Step down into the Sea Wolf Semi-Submersible, which cruises 5 feet below the surface. In this climate-controlled cabin, each passenger has their own seat and porthole to look through, but there’s plenty of space to get up and move around to try other vantage points. You’ll see an array of fish, such as spotted calico bass, opaleye, California sheephead and the state fish, the bright orange Garibaldi, in this vibrant marine environment. Keep your eyes peeled because bat rays and sea lions might also be spotted in between the swaying swaths of kelp.

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Hotel Atwater | Photo by Catalina Island Co.

If you prefer to stay on dry land, but still want to see the marine life, a unique opportunity has popped up at the Tour Plaza. “Immersed: Ocean Wonders” is a 30-minute film presented in a custom-made dome theater for a virtual dive into the world’s oceans—including Catalina’s kelp forests. Footage was shot underwater in 360 degrees to capture every angle. Choose a traditional theater seat (or a beanbag chair up front) and get ready for a tranquil experience that provides up-close encounters with manta rays, sea lions, whale sharks, dolphins and more, with narration and contemporary music. Audience members can feel good about buying a ticket as 10% of profits are donated to conservation groups.

This same plaza is where participants meet for the Bison Expedition. A heavy-duty, four-wheel-drive Hummer vehicle will whisk you on a two-hour tour of the backcountry, past rolling hills, fields, ponds and majestic coastal views from blufftop overlooks. Feel the wind in your hair as your guide shares stories about the island’s history, flora and fauna. While not guaranteed, passengers might encounter California quail; a Catalina subspecies of the Channel Island fox; bald eagles; and American bison roaming the area. Bison were brought to the island by a 1920s film crew, and the remaining herd of about 150 are descendants of those animals. An icon of the American West, these stately creatures were named the nation’s official mammal in 2016. After a stop at Airport in the Sky, a cafe and gift shop at the summit, the return route follows a 19th-century stagecoach trail back to Avalon.

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A Hotel Atwater guestroom | Photo by Catalina Island Co.

Another opportunity to head into the picturesque interior is a new excursion that visits El Rancho Escondido, an Arabian horse ranch built in 1930 by Philip Wrigley. In addition to housing the family’s horses today, the ranch is used to grow wine grapes for Rusack Vineyards, another family business. Visitors may watch a horse exhibition and explore the nearly-century-old, Spanish-style courtyard and stables in addition to viewing one-of-a-kind saddles, trophies won by Wrigley horses and other memorabilia.

Back in Avalon, walk along the palm tree-lined waterfront path to the Casino to enjoy the scenic vista, historic buildings for the Tuna Club of Avalon and Catalina Island Yacht Club, and a low wall decorated with enchanting tile mosaics depicting Catalina landscapes, marine life and landmarks. Upon reaching the Casino, marvel at the architecture, including elaborate ocean-themed murals at the entrance. Take in a classic movie on Fridays and Saturdays or sign up for a VIP backstage tour. Completed in 1929, the Casino stands the equivalent of 12 stories tall and features 105,000 Catalina clay tiles on the rooftop.

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The Undersea Sub Expedition | Photo by Catalina Island Co.

The ground-floor Avalon Theatre is acclaimed for its acoustics as it was the first one built for “talkies,” or films with sound. A domed ceiling, impressive murals and the original pipe organ can all be seen. The upper-level ballroom, a grand 20,000 square feet with an arching 50-foot ceiling and chandeliers, can accommodate up to 1,500 dancers; Big Bands led by Benny Goodman and Artie Shaw once performed here. Now, the island’s annual New Year’s Eve celebration, JazzTrax Festival and Catalina Film Festival all take place at the Casino. The tour includes areas once closed to the public, including green rooms used by Cary Grant, Errol Flynn and other Hollywood stars; Wrigley’s private viewing room and the projection room, complete with equipment from a bygone era and celebrity signatures on the walls.

Catalina Museum for Art & History is another go-to spot, especially for first-time visitors, to learn about the island’s history, like the fire that devastated half of Avalon’s buildings in 1915, the Chicago Cubs conducting spring training on Catalina when Wrigley owned the baseball team and Marilyn Monroe—then Norma Jean Baker—living on the island briefly while married to Jim Dougherty before she became famous. But even return visitors to the island will delight in the rotating exhibits like “Ann Weber: 26 Miles,” on display through Aug. 4. The artist has created sculptures from repurposed cardboard, giving a second life to the material and making a statement about the current culture of consumerism while also playing with themes of nostalgia as well as nature’s vulnerability and resilience. The exhibition name, “26 Miles,” alludes to the distance between Catalina and San Pedro, where Weber is based.

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The view from Bluewater Avalon | Photo by Catalina Island Co.

Notably, for the uninitiated, most people go on foot around the walkable city of Avalon, but golf carts are available for rent as the city has limited the number of traditional, full-size vehicles that are allowed. Although Uber and Lyft don’t service the island, Circuit, an all-electric shared ride service, began operating in Avalon in April.

 

Catalina Cuisine

After exploring all day, you’ll no doubt work up an appetite. Luckily, there are plenty of excellent restaurants from which to choose. When visiting an island, of course, fresh seafood seems like a natural choice. And diners can’t go wrong with Bluewater Avalon, part of the regional Bluewater Grill chain that was established in Newport Beach and has a swordfish harpoon boat to do some of its own fishing. Situated right on the water with a patio and harbor views, Bluewater Avalon is decorated with historic photos, fishing poles and other memorabilia.

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The Bison Expedition | Photo by Catalina Island Co.

A wide variety of dishes are offered at Bluewater, from New England clam chowder to crabcakes, lobster rolls, fish tacos, seared scallops, mussels in white wine sauce, chipotle-blackened local swordfish, lemon pepper mahi-mahi and pan-seared salmon with chimichurri. Those seeking to be a bit more decadent might opt for the beer-battered fish and chips or fried shrimp while those on a health kick would do well to choose either the seafood Louie or Mediterranean ahi salads. And for those who don’t care for seafood, there’s a wagyu cheeseburger, baby back ribs and New York strip steak. Wine and beer choices abound as well as cocktails like the Captain’s Mai Tai, Smoked Old-Fashioned or a traditional Catalina drink, Buffalo Milk with vodka, Kahlua, creme de banana and creme de cacao topped with whipped cream. If that doesn’t satisfy your sweet tooth, there’s always dessert: Key lime pie, Java Mud Pie or New York-style cheesecake.

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Exhibits at El Rancho Escondido, an Arabian horse ranch that recently opened for tours | Photo by Catalina Island Co.

If you have a craving for Mexican food and a margarita or beer, head to Maggie’s Blue Rose. Located on Crescent Avenue, the main pathway running alongside the sand, Maggie’s offers up authentic dishes and drinks with harbor views. The extensive menu ranges from chicken with homemade mole sauce to Island Ceviche, lobster enchiladas, shrimp tacos and the Catalina Burrito with steak, chicken or carnitas. Platters of grilled steak, carne asada, carnitas or fajitas are also available. Another succulent option is the tequila shrimp seasoned with ancho and sauteed in tequila-chile-lime butter. To wash it down, the eatery stocks more than four dozen tequilas. Maggie’s must-try cocktails are the Catalina Prickly Pear and Dulce Agave margaritas, which each offer a kick from infused serrano; both drinks were winners in Taste Around Avalon’s past contests.

Fine Italian dining can be found at M Restaurant, which also boasts ocean views. Start with a glass of vino from the carefully curated list, then order some appetizers to share, like the Crispy Ravioli or Italian meatballs, followed by fresh pasta, flatbreads, steak or locally sourced seafood. A top pick is the Bolognese pasta: fettuccine topped with a rich, tomato-based sauce blending beef and pork, mirepoix, cream and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. Or choose a from-the-sea dish like cioppino or lobster linguini with lemon-cream sauce, sun-dried tomatoes and asparagus. Surf & Turf is another excellent option, with a lobster tail and 10-ounce New York steak, garlic mashed potatoes, asparagus and drawn butter. M Restaurant is a perfect place to celebrate a birthday, anniversary—or your last night on the island.

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Flx Biergarten | Photo by Catalina Island Co.

Another spot to toast the end of a great trip is Flx Biergarten, which opened last summer. The open-air venue with charming string lights features plenty of tables and chairs, cozy fire pits and yard games like beer pong and corn hole. Beer—a pint or a flight—as well as wine, hard cider, seltzer and kombucha are served from a decorated trailer that pays homage to the iconic 1950s Flxible buses that once carried tourists around the streets of Avalon. Choose from a rotating list of brews on tap, from BeachWood CitraHolic, a West Coast India pale ale, to Guinness Nitro, an Irish stout, or Firestone Cali Squeeze Blood Orange hefeweizen. Whether you’re celebrating a successful trip, just getting your weekend started or planning your return visit, there’s no better place to be with friends as the sun sinks down on the horizon. So raise up a glass to Catalina and all the memories you’ve made.

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