Every dining experience at sushi ii tells a story of Japan’s rich culinary artistry.
By Ashley Ryan
In Japan, culture isn’t just remembered—it’s lived.
Since opening its doors in 2020, sushi ii has embodied this concept, bringing the flavors, aesthetics and traditions of the Land of the Rising Sun to Newport Beach. Chef Koji Takahashi has guided the restaurant with a deep commitment to the art of sushi, shaped by his training under master Susumu Ii, for whom the restaurant is named.
More than five years into the venture, sushi ii has introduced another accomplished chef to the lineup with the addition of Norio Izawa in June. Specializing in authentic Japanese cooking, or “washoku,” which he learned while working in restaurants in Tokyo, Kanazawa and New York City, Izawa offers a glimpse into the refined, lesser-known dimensions of Japan’s vibrant cultural fare.
The Michelin-recognized restaurant prides itself on luxurious kaiseki-style meals with meticulously crafted courses designed to showcase a harmonious array of seasonal flavors combined with stunning visual presentations. But sushi ii’s dedication to tradition extends far beyond the cuisine, with a minimalist design featuring soft lighting, Japanese-inspired floral arrangements and intricate wooden artwork crafted by a local resident using a technique called kumiko, resulting in delicate patterns that don’t use anything to affix the pieces.
While an a la carte, or “okonomi,” menu is available, the omakase offerings are the true highlight of any visit to sushi ii. Choose from three options, all including a starter, five to 10 pieces of nigiri, miso soup and dessert. Named for the different Japanese ceramics used at the restaurant, the sushi course, Karatsu, also features a roll of your choice while the signature course, Oribe, serves up an appetizer and additional nigiri.
The crown jewel, the Bizen course, is sushi ii at its best, combining a variety of dishes crafted by both Takahashi and Izawa. With 85% of the restaurant’s seafood flown in from Japan, this glimpse into authentic dining is something special, as many of the ingredients used can’t be found in America.
Sit at the sushi counter to watch as the chefs prepare your meal before your eyes. Start with a taste of artisanal sake, served by the glass or the bottle, to complement the flavors and textures of each dish. If you’ve selected the opulent Bizen course, you’ll enjoy a starter, appetizer plate, seasonal broth, sashimi, grilled dish, fried dish, five pieces of nigiri, miso soup and dessert—but the menu doesn’t spell out what you’ll get as the offerings are ever-changing based on what’s available as well as what’s in season.
One of the highlights, prepared by Izawa, is a collection of small appetizers, which are historically always seasonal in Japan. You may enjoy things like bluefin tuna and lychee in a white wine vinaigrette, white corn, chilled winter melon with miso and Dungeness crab, sweet shrimp with asparagus and a traditional egg yolk vinaigrette or an ichiban oyster with ponzu chile and wasabi sprouts.
Izawa also prepares the grilled and fried dishes as well as the seasonal broth. For the broth, expect a warm, comforting blend, like peony summer eel with sea grapes, plum, bok choy and a yuzu aroma—with water placed on top of the lid to signify that it hasn’t been opened by anyone else.
As for Takahashi’s sushi, prepare to be impressed. Both the sashimi and the nigiri are chef’s choice, but you’ll discover a wide range of possibilities, including perch, yellowjack, sweet shrimp, toro, scallop, Japanese sea urchin, marinated bluefin tuna, eel and more.
End your night with some sweet treats: The dessert course sometimes includes a seasonal fruit platter served before a more intricate finale, such as simmered white peaches for summertime, accompanied by mochi, a peach gelatin, and fresh cherries and blueberries.
In a region defined by diversity, sushi ii stands as a quiet but powerful testament to the enduring beauty of Japanese craftsmanship and tradition, both on and off the plate.
sushi ii
100 W. Coast Highway, Ste. 202
949-287-6268; sushi-ii.com
